Calm Spirit/Ying Yu Jade China Trip 2005

Buddhism and Daoism in the Feng Huang Shan (Phoenix Mountain) Part 11

My Chinese friend was still disappointed that we didn't want to climb up to the top of the mountain. The rain had stopped, it was getting hot, and we compromised on taking the tram to the top of the mountain, and then doing some climbing. It was a long way up and we could see the entire Buddhist Monastery compound as we ascended. It looks much larger than what we saw when we were visiting there. The photos I took of people climbing the mountain didn't show anyone because the mountain is so huge and they were so far away.

It was raining again when we arrived at the top of the Feng Huang Shan. We talked to some Koreans who had climbed, starting very early in the morning. We climbed around, and it was really slippery from the rain, and after we turned our ankles, we were glad we decided not to climb on that trail! Being a government park, there was a toilet facility at the top that required payment. It was an awfully foul porta-potty, and no one was using it, but they were using the "natural facilities" so you had to excuse yourself often when you hiked around a vegetated corner! I didn't take photos because I was holding on to trees so I wouldn't fall! I am still amazed people climb this.

The tram made an awful lot of creaking and groaning noises coming down, but we descended before it started storming again. Just after we got off, it was closed down because of safety problems! Good thing we got that blessing.

Just when we gave up trying to find the Daoist Monastery, there it was. "When the student is ready, the master appears". It is much smaller than the Buddhist's, and in fact, was originally the Buddhist Monastery until they built another larger one. These two monasteries are so different from each other, but again, it's difficult to find the words to describe the difference. The Daoists seemed less formal, and when we first entered the walkway, there were several playing some kind of game, and quickly disappeared when they saw us. During our visit, we saw less than 10 monks, but we knew there were more living there because we could hear them but not see them.

I visited the White Cloud Monastery in Beijing a few years ago, and was struck by the facial appearances of the Daoists monks. They are not solemn like the Buddhist monks, and in fact are smiling and more outgoing. They always seem to have such bright eyes!. And it must be quite a task to get into their clothing. If you have tried to study Daoism, it seems very obscure and secretive, but I truly wonder if that is because of the Chinese-to-English translations. There is so much contemporary literature about Daoism, and so many Dao students struggling to understand Daoism, but as my Chinese Daoist friend says, "too much thinking". I believe Daoism is not about trying to figure it out, but it's about "being". Even Laozi describes a Daoist as someone who sees simplicity in the complicated, and achieves greatness in little things. You can visit www.daospirit.com for a blog and forum if you want to read more about living the Dao.

The Bagua symbol above is the Daoist symbol, and it is the Tai Chi symbol. Tai chi is a discipline, but it is also a qigong practice. Sometimes I think tai chi has been made more complicated than it needs to be.

We spoke briefly with the monks and they showed us around, but didn't want photos of the monks or the private places, which are really unique and I would like to show them. Their setting is very natural, a perfect Daoist nature area. It was clean, and more simple than the Buddhist's. I don't know how they make money. I have seen monks in cities begging, literally on their hands and knees, for food and money. There are many visitors, so perhaps they can get by on the donations.

This was a wonderful and unique opportunity to visit these two monasteries. They are not set up for tourists, so they are genuine, the "real thing" and a very special experience.

Next: Dandong and the Xiuyan Jade Market